RTFKT

Benoit Pagotto is a name that needs no introduction. Behind the view of an irreverent and quite comical CLONEX avatar is Pagotto’s mind. Known for co-founding RTFKT, Pagotto built the leading virtual fashion platform in the NFT market acquired by Nike which is currently valued at $33 million USD. The strategist, who is now part of BoF 500, doesn’t believe in the metaverse or NFTs but in community and joint innovation. With CryptoKicks, Pagotto explores the possibilities between physical and digital aesthetics in streetwear. CLONEX, on the other hand, reimagines human’s ability for self-expression through customizable high-end avatars. If you wonder what’s next for the French multihyphenate and his vision for democratizing 3D collectibles, scroll down for more. 

BENOIT PAGATTO

RTFKT
HE/HIM
PARIS, FR

WORDS BY

CAIT MONAHAN AND SOFIA DE LA CRUZ

16/02/2023

16/02/2023

Benoit Pagotto is a name that needs no introduction. Behind the view of an irreverent and quite comical avatar is Pagotto’s mind. Known for co-founding RTFKT, Pagotto built the leading virtual fashion platform in the NFT market acquired by Nike which is currently valued at $33 million USD. The strategist, who is now part of BoF 500, doesn’t believe in the metaverse or NFTs but in community and joint innovation. With CryptoKicks, Pagotto explores the possibilities between physical and digital aesthetics in streetwear. CLONEX, on the other hand, reimagines human’s ability for self-expression through customizable high-end avatars. Below, Pagotto discusses what he's working on next, the integration of AI into his design process and his plans to further democratize 3D collectibles.

RTFKT

What has been the biggest change for RTFKT since you launched in 2019?

The biggest shift came when we were acquired by Nike three years ago. There has been much more interest from companies, mainstream brands and the wider industry. I'd say this was also partially combined with how receptive and welcoming the community seemed to be of Web3, almost asking mainstream brands to come into the space. Two years ago in 2021, we were all considered very anti-establishment. Now, people are very welcoming. I think they are committed because they understand that it's what is needed for technology and culture to spread faster and on a wider level.

 It’s an elusive term, but what does the metaverse mean to you?

For me, the word metaverse is almost an abusive term. But you know, people need to name things they don't understand. I honestly think the term metaverse this time next year won't be used as much anymore as it doesn't really mean anything. In its best version, you can see how it is trying to manifest an idea. But the problem with the metaverse world is that it relies on very small insights and unpopular crypto platforms. The most interesting thing about the metaverse is that it's in an open economy, an alternate reality powered by an alternate currency. You can see how this is changing how we think of a product or a brand and how we think of different business models and ways of creating experiences that are not necessarily physical. You can still have commerce and interactions through digital experiences.

RTFKT

"The most interesting thing about the metaverse is it's in an open economy, an alternate reality powered by an alternate currency."

RTFKT

You've mentioned brands are increasingly becoming platforms, which is the case for RTFKT. What possibilities do these platforms bring to the IRL?

Now that we have physical products linked to digital ones through NFTs, the possibilities are endless. The way consumers experience products –– how they access them and what they get from them digitally – is really evolving. It's very hard for brands to stay relevant in the current industry's fast-paced landscape; everybody's always seeking to discover the next big thing, sign the next top model or understand the next trend. I think that, as a brand, the key is to actively open yourself to your community and other creatives because they can co-create with you and keep you relevant.

In terms of footwear design, do you think physical shoes are increasingly becoming influenced by what you're doing at RTFKT?

In fashion and beauty, we are witnessing a new digital aesthetic that is influencing the physical world with unexplored materials and shapes. As technology develops, we will have more creative materials, lights and screens on our products and that's when things are radically going to shift. If you read science fiction books, they always picture how people dress in the year 3000 and it's usually with holograms and screens. I think that's the main ambition, but in the meantime, things are changing purely from a design aesthetic. What has been interesting in sneakers lately are algorithm-driven designs and I think these are going to disrupt the way designers work with machines, machine learning and AI. A lot of footwear that's coming up now is built in 3D renders and they are quite modular and minimalistic. I think it is interesting how designs are becoming more futuristic and utilitarian, instead of continuing a traditional type of aesthetic that focuses on leather and stitches.

RTFKT

"A year and a half ago, Web3 was considered very anti-establishment. Now, people are starting to be very welcoming because they understand that it's what is needed for technology and culture to spread faster and on a wider level."

RTFKT

How have you been experimenting with AI?

I've always found AI fascinating. In our RTFKT community, there are a lot of employees using it and we train them to do so. I think it is something that is inevitably going to become part of the creative workflow. What is interesting is how input text is starting a new creative language and we are now learning how to dialogue with AI. I'm seeing people getting very good at this, with some selling their chain of words to others. Now we're in the early days but I think one year from now it will be crazy to see a new type of workforce, careers and qualifications in collaboration with AI. We have around 25 AI professionals in our community that started a small group on Twitter where they train each other. Every week I review the progress they make and they teach me stuff as well.

What initially led you to experiment with avatar building and CloneX and how do you envision the affirmation of identity through digital bodies?

I have always been a big video game head and loved spending a lot of time in character creation schemes. I’ve always been fascinated by how, in most games, you have different accounts, different types of characters, all of that. You see a lot of female characters played by guys and many male characters played by females. When you have the option of non-human avatars, you immediately experiment with it. In gaming chats, most people know each other by the characters they use and not by what they look like in real life. It opens up many possibilities to express yourself without being read by what you look like. It's something that's been on the internet for a while, where you can be behind the profile picture and no one knows who you are, which I think is good because a lot of people have anxieties because of their bodies. I believe avatars can help ease these anxieties by creating new types of relationships between people.

RTFKT

RTFKT

As technology becomes increasingly a part of our identities, do you think the way younger generations grow up will change?

It's hard to predict, but you can see how much we changed since we got phones; they immediately became part of our lives. Imagine the moment we can have something you don't need to hold in your hand, something we can use to augment our body and brain. If you look at the relationship between human evolution and technology, as soon as there's a big technological breakthrough, there's mass adoption, which changes a lot of societal behaviors. I don't know when the next step of evolution through technology will happen, but I'm sure it will have a huge impact.

Sometimes there is a bit of a disconnect between Web3 and streetwear. Many people don't understand the value of intangible goods, yet these same people might buy $1,000 USD sneakers and put them on their shelves without ever wearing them. So, how do you bring the streetwear consumer into the Web3 conversation?

We need established brands to educate their audiences on that; to understand the core benefits of the Web3 space. I think it's quite easy because the moment you experience it for the first time, such as buying a digital good, it opens many doors. It becomes very natural to understand why it's cool and why it's the future. The problem is, in Web3, there are a lot of bad experiences; there's a high entry price now and the good stuff is often more expensive. We need big players to make something accessible enough to their existing audience and then, it will be hard for them to go back to just buying physical stuff, trying to resell it, or having it on their shelves where no one sees it. With virtual collectibles, you can easily showcase them in open 3D spaces in just a few clicks.

RTFKT

On that note, do you have any advice for emerging designers that are trying to speak to a physical streetwear consumer?

My main advice is don't use the word NFT. It’s a tainted term charged with stigma. I don't think this word is going to be used too much in the future, either. You should look at what Instagram has done, they don't mention NFT, they call them digital collectibles. I think this is going to impact how we discover digital goods and their distribution.

RTFKT

"If you look at the relationship between human evolution and technology, as soon as there's a big technological breakthrough, there's mass adoption, which changes a lot of societal behaviors."

RTFKT

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