If the cyber fashion space has a leader, it is Tribute Brand. Gala Marija Vrbanic, the founder of the label, grew up immersed in video games, which made her realize the power of self-expression through digital assets at a young age.

SCRY™LAB

ZIXIONG WEI & OLIVIA CHENG

SCRY™ LAB

BEIJING

WORDS BY

CAIT MONAHAN AND SOFIA DE LA CRUZ

16/02/2023

16/02/2023

In just three years, SCRY™ Lab has secured a loyal following among futuristic sneakerheads. The pioneering, new-wave footwear laboratory is inspired by nature’s silhouettes and sustainable futures, bringing cutting-edge innovation, including a process they call the “Digital Embryo.” SCRY, which means "foretelling the future," might not be doing so through a crystal ball, but through phygital products made by 3D printing and design thinking. SCRY™ Lab’s founders Olivia Cheng and Zixiong Wei discuss how their diverse creative background and inimitable vision create a formula for success; fuelling the brand’s ambitions for today and beyond.

SCRY Stela ©SCRY

Why did your team gravitate towards emerging technology and 3D printing as a creative medium? 

Zixiong was particularly passionate about exploring 3D creation, which is how he started the @scccccry Instagram account. The intricate part of it is then translating a virtual sample into the IRL, finding the right material and making sure it's wearable. 3D printing allows endless possibilities for making, but most of the time it's just a tool for creating prototypes, not wearable designs. And four years later, this is where we are now, really trying to create a seamless system of production, from URL to IRL. We are also really conscious of minimizing our carbon footprint, which is why we incorporate sustainability into the very core of our designs. We believe that innovation not only lies in a designer's creative expression but also in eco-conscious practices.

SCRY shuttle beta ©SCRY

"When we think of the future of footwear itself, we think of a new design ecology. The footwear industry is so complex, which gives us this strong desire to challenge how we think about creating new things and how we can develop a more sustainable way of doing it."

SCRY Digital Embryo ©SCRY

It sounds like research is a core part of your ethos. Tell us a bit more about the methodology behind your process?

We aim to create new pieces through a completely different configuration from traditional footwear making. We have "Lab" in our title so we don't forget where we came from and because we don't think of ourselves as a traditional fashion brand. We are constantly exploring new ways of doing things, including designs, technology and even interaction. We don't think of our consumers as customers, but as co-collaborators. 

When we think of the future of footwear itself, we think of a new design ecology. The footwear industry is so complex, which gives us a strong desire to challenge how we think about creating new things and how we can develop a more sustainable way of doing it. We want our studio to be an innovative space, where our team members feel encouraged to test new things and, if they fail, to try again. We really hope in the future we can have access to new technology that can make our wildest visions for footwear come true. We also want to explore other sides of people's lifestyles, not just footwear.

SCRY x Iris van Herpen ©SCRY

SCRY x Showstudio

The “Digital Embryo” is key to your process. Can you explain what it means?

Digital Embryo is a framework that we use to translate our virtual creations into the physical world. It is composed of three parts: digital design, digital manufacturing and digital marketing – this way, all technologies and departments related to digitalization can be connected by data to form a different and interesting footwear ecology. 

In terms of collaborations, we’ve also been invited to collaborate with several top fashion labels at Paris Fashion Week and Milan Fashion Week based on the Digital Embryo process. Collaborating with us makes it much faster and easier for fashion labels to create new footwear styles. We believe digital is the link connecting a lot of things, from AI to purchase experience. At the moment, we define ourselves as a footwear brand, but we are also testing different things in the virtual world and translating these ideas to the physical world. One of the new things we tried last year was collaborating with Showstudio and created digital footwear for Nick Knight’s fashion photography collection. We also did an AR trial in the past, in which our clients could try our designs virtually. Our current business model is based on a made-to-order strategy, which allows us to really connect with our clients and have a lower environmental impact. So for us, it’s important to develop a framework that can encapsulate all the different projects we are working on. 

What are some of the most exciting designs that you're seeing as the digital merges into physical?

We want the core of our designs, regardless of how futuristic they get, to be primarily driven by the natural world and sustainability. Nature not only inspires our visual language but also makes us think of eco-conscious materials to use. Our design language is informed and inspired by nature and its complexity; its shapes, geometry and aesthetics.There is also an element of transhumanism and second skins, but we try not only to focus on futurology. Instead, we want to raise questions about how humans and AI can co-create, rather than replace one with the other. We are proud of how we've managed to blend automation with nature in the product life cycle equation.

SCRY Neptune ©SCRY

"We believe it's more about raising questions regarding how humans and AI can co-create, rather than replace one with the other."

 SCRY Shuttle beta AR trail by follower

What do you see for the future of footwear design?

Zixiong first used the word “Scccccry” as his designer name before realizing that “Scry” is actually an English word that describes “foretelling the future using a crystal ball.” For us, the future lies within customization, on-demand manufacturing, low design threshold and ultra-high, design iteration capabilities. 3D printing is just one technology we are using at the moment, but there are going to be more. What we really seek to explore is how to simplify traditional footwear manufacturing processes from the beginning to the end of the product life cycle.

SCRY Thermal runaway

In what way do you think technology will evolve so consumers can become active participants in the creative process?

Decentralizing production is something that has been widely talked about for quite some time. However, in our case, even if our client has a desk 3D printer at home, it would not be possible to create a real product that is wearable. The materials we explore and the production system we use keep evolving day by day. We are actually working on a new initiative that will invite our consumers to co-create with us and offer them a more personalized experience, but we can’t share that quite yet.

Talk to us about one of your most recent drops, “Thermal Runaway.”

We always try to be one step ahead of the trend cycle, which is why we play around with new silhouettes quite often. For this collection, we wanted our customers to feel this sense of constant experimentation which is why we placed it in a lab. We think this lab interference coupled in the chaotic and irregular motion of the lab environment is a very interesting notion.

Even if our designs look quite experimental, they are actually still wearable, it’s one of the things most important to us. We want our creations to have a function, which is why when we make physical shoes, we want them to have a comfortable shape. On the other hand, our digital creations are very experimental and they are driven by different values. In a virtual ecosystem, shoes are no longer something you use to cover your feet, they are a dimension to explore one’s identity and style.

SCRY™ Lab

“In a virtual ecosystem, shoes are no longer something you use to cover your feet, they are a dimension to explore one’s identity and style.”

SCRY™ Lab

SCRY™ Lab

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